Rock Climbing in Peru: Huaraz, Cusco and a Machu Picchu Rest Day

Why climb in Peru

Peru is best known for Machu Picchu and big Andean peaks, but it also has some of the most unusual rock climbing in South America: a volcanic stone forest at over 4,000 meters, limestone caves above Inca valleys and granite slabs in the Sacred Valley. This guide covers rock climbing in Peru for travelers: the main areas around Huaraz and Cusco, when to go, how to handle the altitude, gear notes, and how to fit a Machu Picchu rest day into a climbing trip.

Quick facts

• Main hubs: Huaraz (Cordillera Blanca) and Cusco (Sacred Valley)
• Rock: volcanic ignimbrite, limestone and granite
• Style: mostly sport, with some trad and multi-pitch
• Best season: dry season, May to September
• Big factor: altitude, with many crags above 4,000 meters
• Guidebook: Huaraz: The Climbing Guide by David Lazo and Marie Timmermans

When to go

The Andes have a dry season from about May to September, and that's the time to climb. November to March is the rainy season, and April and October are shoulder months that can work with some luck. Even in the dry season mountain weather changes fast, and nights get very cold at altitude, so bring warm layers and a rain shell. The coast around Lima is a different world: dry and often gray, with climbing possible most of the year.

Altitude first

Many of Peru's best crags sit above 3,500 to 4,000 meters. Every move feels harder up there, so plan a few easy days to acclimatize before you try anything at your limit. Drink plenty of water, go easy on the first days, and know the signs of altitude sickness. Cusco (about 3,400 m) and Huaraz (about 3,050 m) are both good places to adjust while you explore town.

Huaraz and the Cordillera Blanca

Huaraz is Peru's mountain town and the base for the Cordillera Blanca, the highest tropical mountain range in the world. Alpinists come for the snow peaks, but the area has plenty of rock too, from small crags a short ride from town to bigger objectives in the high valleys. Local guide services and gear shops in Huaraz are the best source of current beta and transport.

Hatun Machay

Hatun Machay is the headline sport area: a "bosque de piedras," or stone forest, on the Cordillera Negra at around 4,200 meters, roughly two hours from Huaraz by road. The rock is ignimbrite, a welded volcanic tuff that climbs a bit like grippy sandstone, weathered into towers, fins and mushrooms. There are a couple of hundred bolted routes, from easy to very hard, facing every direction. Access is managed with the local community and there's a fee. The area also has ancient rock paintings, so stay well away from painted panels. Nights are bitterly cold, and the refuge has opened and closed over the years, so confirm lodging before you count on it.

Cusco and the Sacred Valley

Cusco is where most travelers start, and there's real climbing within reach.

Sacred Valley

Between Urubamba and Ollantaytambo, the Sacred Valley has a growing collection of crags. Mountain Project describes the Pachar sector as granite walls up to about 700 feet tall with cracks that have trad potential, plus sport and multi-pitch routes. Nearby sectors around Lamay, Pumahuanca and Paucarbamba add slabs, overhangs and bouldery pocket routes. Development is active, so check current topos (the local Escalada Cusco community posts them) and consider a local guide for your first days.

Ch'acco Huayllascca (Pitumarca)

About two and a half hours from Cusco near the town of Pitumarca, Ch'acco Huayllascca is one of Peru's best sport-climbing areas, with roughly 150 to 200 limestone routes on slabs, vertical faces, roofs and tufas, many starting around 4,000 meters. The local community runs it: register, pay the small entry fee in cash, and camp or stay in the community refugio.

Gear and rack notes

Most Peruvian rock climbing is bolted, so bring a 70m rope, 15 to 18 quickdraws, a helmet and your usual anchor kit. If you want to explore Sacred Valley cracks, pack a light single rack and nuts. Gear is available in Huaraz and Cusco but can be limited and expensive, so bring what you need. Sun protection is a must at altitude, and warm layers for belaying in the wind.

Guidebooks and topos

For the Huaraz area, Huaraz: The Climbing Guide by David Lazo and Marie Timmermans (2014) covers 23 climbing and bouldering sites and more than 1,000 routes, including Hatun Machay. For Cusco, the Sacred Valley and the rest of the country, toposperu.com, Mountain Project and theCrag are the most useful online sources.

Rest day: Machu Picchu

You can't come this far and skip it. Machu Picchu is reached from Cusco or the Sacred Valley by train to Aguas Calientes, the small town at the foot of the mountain, then a bus or steep hike up to the ruins. Entry is by timed ticket, and tickets (especially for Huayna Picchu, the peak behind the ruins) sell out, so book ahead. Llamas wander the terraces, the views are wild, and it makes a perfect rest day for tired forearms.

Eat like you mean it

Peruvian food is a big reason to make the trip. Fill up on lomo saltado, ceviche on the coast, and fresh fruit and juice from local markets. In Lima, El Parque D'Onofrio, a classic ice-cream parlor and restaurant across from Parque Kennedy in Miraflores, has been serving sweets and meals since 1960 and is an easy stop on the way in or out of the country.

Climb responsibly

Many Peruvian crags exist because local communities allow and manage access. Pay the fees, ask before you camp, pack out everything, and never climb near rock art or archaeological sites. Hiring local guides and staying in community refugios helps keep these areas open.

Bring the right shirt

A trip like this deserves a good souvenir. Check out our funny trad climbing shirts or browse our gifts for trad climbers for your climbing partner back home.